In addition, any dealer handling or prep fees, will be deducted entirely from the beginning price, to offset the printed charge that remains on the paperwork for the general public. Very often when a dealership quotes an “Invoice Price”, it is usually from a general computer generated print out, whereby the dealership may have added undisclosed profit, therefore you will need to obtain a special Voucher first before visiting or contacting any dealership.
Keep in mind that Kelly Blue Book and other alike references can only give a general and average invoice pricing guidelines, which very often does not include dealer added equipment. Please know that every vehicle has it’s own unique invoice, just as a baby has it’s own birth certificate!
Please read on how to accurately identify the actual Manufacturer’s Invoice or if you need further assuring information, please contact our offices immediately from the showroom floor!
Unlike the usual tiresome negotiation, hassles and high pressured retail sales tactics, the referred automotive dealership is guaranteed to show you the lowest bottom line “out the door” price, within just moments after you select a desired vehicle.
You will be responsible for State Sales Taxes, Battery & Tire Disposal Fees, Tag Fees, including any and all applicable rebates and advertised incentives at the time of sale.
If for any reason you are experiencing any difficulty or confusion, please immediately call your Regional Office and one of our on duty staff members will assist you, or speak with the person assisting you to assure that everything will be in compliance with the program pricing before going ahead. If calling after 5 PM or on weekends, please use your after-hours number disclosed on the toll free number voice mail.
Most dealerships charge a Dealer Handling, Dealer Preparation, and or Documentation Fee. These fees can be as much as $600 or more and are usually required to be paid by the general public, however, these fees are NOT CHARGEABLE to our official referred personnel. Please Note: In many instances, these fees are usually already imprinted on the dealership documents and lawfully cannot be crossed out, HOWEVER, the amounts of these fees are actually deducted from the beginning price, (or the capitalized cost on the leasing agreement) so that when the figures are added up, the buyer will know that the exact amount of the fees have been properly credited back.
Never introduce your trade vehicle until the buy price has been established first. This way the true offering of your trade will be clear and separate.
Since the program provides that you pay the least amount of money for the car you wish to purchase and not have to pay any dealer fees, your traded vehicle must stand on its own merit and not cosmetically inflated with profits from the over inflated window sticker.
Please remember that you are buying your new vehicle approximately wholesale. Consequently, at that level there is no “wiggle room” in the small amount of profit to the dealership to cosmetically “over allow” for your trade beyond the printed values contained in the Black Book. This Black Book is the true reference which all banks use when providing loans and the numbers change and decrease by the week.
The true actual cash value of your car (ACV) would be what the dealer would offer you without you buying their car! Using the internet Kelly Blue Books will only give you ball park figures, less wear and tear and mileage at the time of the trade. The best way to be sure to get the real offering for your trade is to present it only after you get the program adjusted buy price.
a- Please understand that when an appraiser looks at your trade, the Black Book which all the Banks and Lender’s use to approve loans, is referenced according to the age, brand and model of your vehicle. In addition to the listed value, the appraiser must also calculate and consider the following elements before making an offer:
b- Check to see if all the manufactured equipment is working, A/C, Lights, Radio, Power Windows, etc. and calculate the overall costs and time to effect any needed repairs.
c- Check to see signs of repainting and assess costs for any dings, dents or any other interior cosmetic adjustments needed in order to attract a new buyer.
d- Check mileage. Generally speaking a vehicle is considered one year older for every 12,000 miles of its model year; which also impacts upon the offering and its value to a prospective buyer.
e- Tires: In most cases the tires will have to be replaced to attract a new buyer and the vehicle will have to be detailed inside and out to give it a fresh look.
f- Mechanical and Safety Inspections: Most reputable automotive dealers today have the traded vehicle checked for needed repairs to protect their reputation and the safety of the new buyer, which adds a cost to the vehicle.
g- The appraiser must also be aware of the current popularity of the particular make and model of the vehicle to determine how quickly it may attract a new buyer. Since the Black Book numbers lessen every week, the appraiser must calculate a safety margin of time to prevent a losses to the dealership if the vehicle cannot be resold in a reasonable amount of time.
After a certain while, the unsold vehicles are usually sold at a loss to wholesalers, so not to endure a total loss.
So, the next time you present your trade to an appraiser, keep in mind all the above elements that an appraiser needs to know and consider about your traded vehicle, so that you may better understand what a legitimate and fair offer should be. Don’t forget, the price you had in mind to sell your vehicle privately will always be more than a dealer offer and upon a private sale, take into consideration that unlike the dealership, you would have no further involvement with the next buyer.
The program ensures your being charged below all offerings given to the general public regarding the price of the vehicle. Financing is really up to each individual and based on their ability to be funded by any given lender HOWEVER, you have several choices at your disposal:
a)- Dealership Financing:
Many dealerships have an advantage of getting lending approval much more quickly as they submit a much higher volume to their lenders, which often result in a more competitive rate offer and they have a greater approval power, which leaves the other two entities available for “rainy days” or future unforeseen emergencies.
In addition, many Credit Unions do not report to Credit Bureaus and therefore, the credit scores are not improved as much. The fact that some Credit Unions take their monthly payments direct from paychecks does not necessarily raise overall credit scores.
Please remember that Credit Bureau Scores not only rate you for your “ability to pay”, but also for your “willingness to pay on your own”. Very often in marginal cases, this one point might be the deciding factor based on whether a loan is approved or not.
VERY IMPORTANT: Some dealerships will tell you that the lender requires you to have an extended warranty and that your refusal will cause a higher interest rate because of the extra risk to the proposed lender. The Federal Trade Commission, (FTC) warns in that event, to call the lender yourself and see if that is true. Don’t be fooled and report to us immediately.
b)- Credit Unions:
Many of our personnel reference their Credit Unions and ask what percentage is being offered before considering dealership financing to be better informed and have more options. Very often credit unions offer lower borrowing rates, nevertheless, it is wise to get quotes from all three sources before going ahead. Credit Unions are also a great source when you need cash for unforeseen incidents, as you don’t have to buy anything to get a loan.
NOTE: Be aware of Credit Unions attempting to refer you to certain dealerships, as they very often act as “Brokers” and become the “middle man” and then get paid for their services, which in turn limits your savings on the overall price. Remember, their profits should only be derived from the amount of your loan and not as a bonus commission from the overall sale.
c)- Local Banks:
Another choice to consider would be calling your local bank to see what they are offering, as many banks today are looking to expand their car loan programs.
Which ever plan you select, you should always know the other alternatives. This way you will already be better informed and can act from a more intelligent position. We are sure this makes good sense!
Very often the dealership or the program gets wrongly blamed when a loan is denied. The dealership really wants you to have the vehicle, except they must be paid by the lender in order to complete the transaction.
There are several areas of consideration available.
a)- Putting more money down:
“Money talks, . . . . but cash SCREAMS!!!”
Although your employee program guarantees that you will be paying the least amount of money for the vehicle, it has NO involvement with financing, as everyone is judged by the proposed lender according to their individual credit histories. Accordingly, your interest rate will be solely depend on your own personal credit standing at the time of sale, however putting enough money to lessen the proposed lender’s risk will always assure a better chance for loan approval.
b)- Personally visit your Credit Union or Local Bank:
Your Credit Union, (if applicable) or your local bank should know of your circumstances, so make sure you bring all the necessary paperwork they might need to help getting you an approved. After knowing what lending rates may be available at that time, you may then offer the dealership another chance to compete for your business beyond your current offerings.
Please note that with “bruised credit” there is always a chance to be approved by a lender depending on how much money can be put down.
c)- Getting a consignor:
Very often if someone in your family with a better credit profile would agree to cosign the loan with you, the lender might be more favorable to grant the loan.
d) Re-selecting a lesser valued vehicle:
With “bruised credit”, It is always better to select the most inexpensive but newest vehicle with the largest rebate available. In this situation one has to really understand that the major accomplishment here is to win the approval of a lender and over time reestablish your credit so that next time around, there would be no restrictions at all.
NOTE: A lender will always be more apt to approve a new vehicle more frequently than a used vehicle! In fact, used vehicle lending rates are usually higher because the proposed lender senses more of a risk knowing the vehicle may need expensive repairs before you are finished paying for it.
Also, too often you would be forced to purchase an extended warranty which drives the costs up further. You should first consider looking at your monthly payments for a new inexpensive vehicle, as you may be surprised how close you really are to the used car payments, only without the worry of driving some one else’s old headache.
Let’s face it, it the used vehicle was that dependable, the original owner would have kept it or sold it privately to make more money!
Also, be aware that many accidents go unreported and that Car Fax Reports are not always reliable. Today’s body shops can take a vehicle that was hit by a train and make it look like new, until you drive it for a while. Months later, you want to make a right turn . . . and then the car makes a left instead!
e)- Bruised Credit & Higher Interest Rates:
Generally, all lenders will understandably want a higher Interest rate based on their perceived risk and the severity of your current credit profile, however, please know that if you continue to make your monthly payments for one year without being late, your credit standing will have dramatically improved. At that time you will have reestablished your credit and in most cases be eligible to refinance your loan at a much lower rate.
IMPORTANT: For more considerations and valuable information on this subject, please select the link for Used Cars Verses New Cars
You should always FIRST get the “buy price” and then only after you’re satisfied, make sure the same buy price appears on the Leasing Agreement on the line named CAPITALIZED COST . . . . and the NO DEALER FEES rule still applies. If the Capitalized Cost Line on the Leasing Agreement shows a higher value than the Program Buy Price, then stop the process and call our headquarters immediately from the dealership.
Monthly Leasing Payments may vary due to make and model selection, amount of factory equipment and trim packages, applied rebates and incentives applicable at the time of the lease, including mileage limitations. Unlike conventional financing, the component structure of a lease will take into account the residual value of the subject vehicle over the lease term and a profit amount to the Leasing Company Lender. “Inception Fees” are made up of one month’s rent, one month’s security, a bank acquisition fee, monthly federal tax, and state tag fees. Credit worthiness, may also play a part from the Leasing Company Lender.
NOTE: As with a sale or a lease, the Dealer Fees are often preset and printed on the Buyer’s Order and the Leasing Agreement. While it is unlawful to just cross out these amounts the, “Buy Price” or Capitalized Cost amounts are lessened to compensate for these charges so that even though they appear, the buyer or lessor will know that they were credited back for that amount.
If for any reason you are experiencing any difficulty or confusion, please immediately call your Regional Office and one of our on duty staff members will assist you, or speak with the person assisting you to ensure that everything will be in compliance with the program pricing before going ahead.
If calling after 5 PM or on weekends, please use your after-hours number disclosed on the toll free number voice mail
Beware of dealerships, attempting to lure you back into their showrooms to entice you to terminate your lease early for a newer vehicle. This is simply a sales tactic to sell or lease you a new vehicle to make an extra sale and nothing more.
The fact is NO Dealership has the legal power to exonerate you from your remaining payments until the end of your lease, and must, without hesitation pay the leasing company in full, in order to terminate the lease.
What actually happens is, the dealership charges that balance back to you in the new arithmetic of your new lease or purchase. Where applicable, the dealership will often use the rebate money instead of giving it to you as payment toward the deficiency. In most cases this arithmetic is not readily visible and camouflaged in the paperwork.
The only time you can be exonerated from your remaining payments is only of the leasing company itself, (not the dealership) sent you a letter, advising you of this action.
Our financial experts, accountants and attorneys, advise always to keep the vehicle until the end of the lease to ensure not unknowingly paying for both the new vehicle and the old one at the same time and paying additional taxes as well.
Please call our offices should you need more clarification.
This answer uses simple arithmetic.
- How many months before the end of your lease? _______
- How much is your monthly payment? _______
- Your number of months (1) times your monthly payment (2) = ________
- How many miles over the leasing agreement will you be at the end of your lease? ________
- Your mileage overage, times 22 cents per mile = ________
The question you need to ask yourself at this juncture, is the total of your lease payments worth losing out of your pocket now, in contrast to what your excess mileage might be at the end of your lease? Using simple arithmetic, the answer is usually NEVER!
Another consideration is that at the end of the lease, you can use the total of the mileage overage as a bargaining chip, when you are ready to make your next purchase or lease!
Once again, please call us if you need more clarity.10)- Used Cars Verses New Cars:
Before you decide to make a Used Car Purchase, you need to make sure that Everything is Agreed in Writing, for your protection and the dealer. Please remember, Used vehicles are often passed off as being in better condition than they really are, and that negative details about their past histories may not be disclosed.
The average buyer does not usually have a vast knowledge in auto mechanics often enabling a vehicle to be sold with the buyer being unaware of any problems.
Accordingly, it is essential for a buyer to ask to be allowed to take the vehicle to a trusted third party for inspection, such as his or her own mechanic before finalizing the purchase.
Please see below some related helpful hints:
|NEW VEHICLES||USED VEHICLES|
|New Vehicles offer the lowest financing and the months to pay the loan back are longer.||Financing rates are generally higher and the months for financing are often shorter, which drives up the payment.|
|In many cases they offer special Incentives and Rebates without any headaches.||In most cases the monthly payment is very close to having the new vehicle. Also No Rebates are available.|
|The Original Manufacturer’s Invoice is made available for accurate reference showing the verifiable cost to the dealer.||The true cost to the dealership is never revealed or how long the vehicle has been in their inventory.|
|New Warranty! If the vehicle is held over for a warranty repair, there is usually a free loaner car available.||Only a limited warranty left (if any) or you have to pay extra for one. Also no rentals are provided when getting repairs.|
|Usually no repairs or adjustments are needed, and therefore your time at the dealership is greatly limited throughout your ownership experience. Less days taken off from work.||Most used vehicles have mechanical defects which are often not known by the dealership, and then often too costly to effect needed repairs. Many dealers are not looking to spend extra money on complete inspections.|
|No Car fax necessary. No Previous Owners. No questionable mileage.||Car Fax Reports do not show previous accidents that were not reported nor an accurate history of required oil changes.|
|All new makes and models are protected by the Lemon Law in the event the dealership was unable to make the needed repairs to complete satisfaction.||No Lemon Law protection and in many cases the used vehicles are sold “AS IS” with no assurances.|
In order to protect and maintain the integrity and accuracy of your Employee Benefits Program, we only allow certain dealerships per county throughout the United States to participate with our Supplemental Benefit Programs; which service Federal, State, and other official personnel. We screen them very carefully on a continuing basis with the Department of Professional Regulation, Consumer Affairs, The Better Business Bureau and J.D. Powers & Associates, for a complete verification of customer satisfaction histories, through submitted surveys and an assurances of continuous ethical business practices.
When a dealership falls below certain standards of performance, they become either suspended or in some cases, expelled from participation. We stay committed to you throughout your ownership experience to act on your behalf in the event of any issue pertaining to your written Warranty, Service Department visits or any other interactions where you feel your concerns were not addressed appropriately. We continuously make sure all our authorized dealerships have proven track records and are the most trusted on all levels.
Please know we are duty bound to serve, protect and if necessary, enforce that your rights are respected under the strict guidelines of this program. When necessary, we also file reports into the management of the automotive dealership along with the several consumer protection agencies to ensure your being handled in a most effective and professional manner.
Furthermore, the particular dealerships are most appreciative for having been exclusively selected above their neighboring competitors, and therefore is more inclined to protect it’s status with us and insure a most positive ownership experience.
For your convenience, we do however make a genuine effort to provide an approved dealership within a reasonable distance to your zip code. While we recommend that you service the vehicle from the same dealership, you can always go to the nearest dealership for your further convenience.
MOST IMPORTANTLY, please remember you must first contact our office, BEFORE CONTACTING ANY DEALERSHIP, to be sent an immediate emailed VOUCHER to bring with you to the certain dealership. At the same time, we notify the specific managers named on your VOUCHER to expect you.
Without an Official Voucher, or calling us first, you will be paying a higher price along with the general public.
Yes, The program is in addition to . . . and not in place of all rebates and incentives available at the time of sale are applicable. If you need further assurances, stop everything and immediately call us.
Generally speaking, every brand of vehicle has a few models that are kept in limited availability or considered a high line model.
Obviously, you can’t expect to purchase a Chevrolet Corvette or BMW 7 Series at almost invoice cost, as there would be lines around the block, however, you will still be offered a lower price than that given to any retail customer, including internet shoppers, calling direct or just walking into the dealership.
The amount of vehicles available in inventory at specific times of year will also determine what additional incentives may be available on these type models.
In these instances, or for a list of specific models, it is best to confer with your closest Regional Benefits Office for the most updated information and pricing status of your desired vehicle before contacting any dealership and leaving them your name.
In the event you wish to share this program with your immediate family members, YOU must first call yourself and give us the family names to add to your personal file.
Immediate family members shall include Mothers, Fathers, Sisters, Brothers, Sons and Daughters. . . . Please, No Cousins!
The same rules apply, as you must call us first, but please remember:
Just because you acquired your last vehicle from a particular dealership doesn’t mean they may still be in Active Referral Status and authorized to continue with the program, that is unless you officially hear it from us! This is very important that you still call us first, as you can be very easily misled by some overly aggressive salespersons.
Absolutely! Once you are registered in our files, your benefits program continues with the condition that you contact your closest Regional Office each and every time you wish to purchase or lease your next vehicle.
Please understand that the general public is usually negotiated just using the window sticker, which because of the inflated profits will very often create the illusion of a “better deal” with multiple vehicle purchases, however under your employee program, you are privileged to work from the “bottom up” from the original invoice , instead from the “top down” of the MSRP window sticker and therefore, are subject to still pay below all offers given to the general public. Your program ensures your dealing with the actual manufacturer’s invoice and not the window sticker or some computer print out of what many dealers try to portray as an invoice. Whether you are buying one or ten, you still get the same wholesale pricing. When in doubt, always confer with us first!
Automotive Dealerships actually lose profits when you pay cash, as they are not compensated with percentage commissions from the lenders.
Our Financial Professionals tell us that paying cash is never the best way of obtaining a vehicle. A basic rule for financial prudence is to:
Only buy what goes up in value and only lease or rent what what goes down in value over time.
The fact is that any vehicle that is produced on an assembly line anywhere in the world loses its value the moment it is completed. Generally speaking, most vehicles lose half their value over a three year period. The first year loss is the most severe and the second year a little less.
Accordingly, you should consider if the cash money you would have put down would have earned you more interest being invested somewhere else, in contrast to the small percentage being offered to pay on time.
In most cases, people like to know their money is in their own bank or Credit Union in case of emergencies. In addition, it has been known that on occasion a lender upon hearing dissatisfaction from a borrower will often be a valuable ally when addressing a concern over the performance of the bought product.
The immediate response that having no monthly car payment by paying cash is really a misconception. Actually you did have car payments, . . . you just made them all at once right up front!
Please understand that no pricing can be given to you over the telephone, internet or fax, as these programs are NOT shared with the general public, and therefore, you must present yourself in person to the named Sales Manager on your Voucher. Once you show your employment identification, (I.D. badge, paycheck stub or pictured I.D.), that information will be given to you. This policy protects you, the dealership and the continuing integrity of this program.
Once we have been notified of your delivery, your file continues to remain open in the event you experience any future difficulties with your Warranty, Service Department visits, or any other interaction throughout your ownership experience that you may feel needs our interaction. This feature offers a great feeling of confidence, knowing that you are not alone when it comes to dealing with repair or adjustment issues.
If necessary, we will always intercede on your behalf with the dealership’s management to ensure all your needs and concerns are handled promptly, effectively and according to your satisfaction.
We’re sure you’ll agree and appreciate, . . .
THIS IS A VERY STRONG AND VALUED PROGRAM!
Destination fees are legitimate costs to the dealership for having the vehicle brought to their premises. In the event you had the ability to directly order a vehicle and have it dropped shipped to your door, you would also be subject to the same fee. Given another scenario, if you mailed a letter in the post office, you still have “to pay for the stamp”. Subsequently, “Destination Charges” are appropriately charged and never negotiable.